New weave enlargement technique on shafts - Nouvelle technique d'agrandissement d'armures sur lames

For more than a hundred years all kinds of weaves have been found with the handloom, the Jacquard loom, the drawloom including "Taqueté, Samit and Lampas".
Our forebears extensively shetched the enlargement of small weaves.
However, they did not have computers, which has left the study uncomplete.
Therefore, the purpose of this webpage is to provide you a complete global technique.

Depuis plus de cent ans tout a été trouvé en matière d'armures que ce soit sur le métier armuré, le métier Jacquard ou le métier à la tire avec les "Taqueté, Samit  et Lampas"
Nos anciens ont même largement esquissé l'agrandissement des armures sur lames, mais , comme ils ne disposaient pas à l'époque d'ordinateurs, l'étude n'a pas été systématique comme nous vous le proposons dans cette page Web. 




New technique of enlargement of weaves with only one threading by handbook 
Nouvelle technique d'agrandissement d'armures sur un même enfilage  

To open WIFs, Fiberworks

1 handbook (583 WIFs or weaves) only 1 threading
1 manuel (583 WIFs ou armures)  seulement 1 enfilage

10 shafts
First handbook only one threading
Enlargement by 9 of weave
Agrandissement par 9 de l'armure
Yoshida
 Threading 8 shafts
8 threadlings
8 treadlings
Handweaving.net #41846


Our enlargement
Straight look threading 10
 shafts

 24 threadings
24 treadlings

Maxi warp and weft floats : 5
Examples

Go to the store


10 shafts
Second handbook only one threading 
Enlargement by 28 of weave
Agrandissement par 28 de l'armure
E. Poma 
Straight threading 8 shafts
8 threadlings
8 treadlings
Handweaving.net #41914


Our enlargement

Pointed look threading 10 shafts
 24 threadings
24 treadlings

Maxi warp and weft floats : 5
Examples

Go to the store



10 shafts
Third handbook only one threading
Enlargement by 81 of weave
Agrandissement par 81 de l'armure
E. Poma 
Threading 8 shafts
8 threadlings
8 treadlings
Handweaving.net #42098


Our enlargement
Straight look threading 10
 shafts

 24 threadings
24 treadlings

Maxi warp and weft floats : 5
Examples

Go to the store






10 shafts
Fourth handbook only one threading
Enlargement by 126 of weave
Agrandissement par 126 de l'armure
Baldwin 
Threading 8 shafts
8 threadlings
8 treadlings
Handweaving.net #53953


Our enlargement

Double pointed  look threading 10 shafts
 24 threadings
24 treadlings

Maxi warp and weft floats : 5 
Examples

Go to the store













1 handbook (814 WIFs or weaves) only 1 threading
1 manuel (814 WIFs ou armures)  seulement 1 enfilage 

18 shafts
First handbook only one threading
Enlargement by 9 of weave
Agrandissement par 9 de l'armure 
Irene Wood 
Pointed threading 16 shafts
30 threadlings
30 treadlings
page 114 figure 2
Handweaving.net #34707


Our enlargement
Pointed look threading 
18 shafts
90 threadings
90 treadlings
Maxi warp and weft floats : 5
Examples

Go to the store

18 shafts
Second handbook only one threading
Enlargement by 38 of weave
Agrandissement par 38 de l'armure 
Irene Wood
Pointed  threading 16 shafts  
30 threadings
30 treadlings
page 39 figure 2
Handweaving.net #34771

Our enlargement
Pointed look threading 18 shafts
186 threadings
186 treadlings
Maxi warp and weft floats : 5
Examples

Go to the store


18 shafts
Third handbook only one threading
  Enlargement by 81 of weave
Agrandissement par 81 de l'armure
Irene Wood
Pointed threading 16 shafts
30 threadings 
30 treadlings 
page 19 figure 1
Handweaving.net #34734

Our enlargement 
Pointed look threading 18 shafts
270 threadings
270 treadlings
Maxi warp and weft floats : 5
Examples

Go to the store

18 shafts
Fourth handbook only one threading
 Enlargement by 225 of weave
Agrandissement par 225 de l'armure
Heinrich Woolhever
Pointed threading 16 shafts
30 threadings
30 treadlings
Handweaving.net #70010

Our enlargement 
Pointed look threading 18 shafts
450 threadings
450 treadlings
Maxi warp and weft floats : 5








1 handbook 1343 WIFs only 1 threading
1 manuel 1343 WIFs seulement 1 enfilage 


10 shafts
First handbook only one threading
 Enlargement by 6 of weaves from 
Atlas 4000 armures by L. Serrure

L. Serrure 184
Handweaving.net #35075
Straight threading
8 shafts  8 threading 6 treadling


Our new technique to enlarge by 6
 Serrure 184
Handweaving.net #35075
Straight look threading
10 shafts 24 threading 12 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 6   Weft floats : 5




14 shafts
Second handbook only one threading
Enlargement by 6 of weaves from 
Atlas 4000 armures by L. Serrure
L. Serrure 719
Handweaving.net #35610
Straight threading
12 shafts  12 threading 12 treadling

Our new technique to enlarge by 6
 Serrure 719
Handweaving.net #35610
Straight look threading
14 shafts 36 threading 24 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 10   Weft floats : 5




Go to the store




18 shafts
Third handbook  only one threading
Enlargement by 6 of weaves from 

Atlas 4000 armures by L. Serrure
L. Serrure 1385
Handweaving.net #36276
Pointed  threading
16 shafts  30 threading 36 treadling

Our new technque to enlarge by 6
 L. Serrure 1385
Handweaving.net #36276
Pointed look threading
18 shafts 90 threading  72 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 16   Weft floats : 5
Reverse side



22 shafts
Fourth handbook only one threading
Enlargement by 6 of weaves from 

Atlas 4000 armures by L. Serrure
L. Serrure  2151
Handweaving.net #37042
Pointed  threading
20 shafts  38 threading 9 treadling or picks


Our new technique to enlarge by 6
 Serrure 2151
Handweaving.net #37042
Pointed look threading
22 shafts  114 threading  18 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 12   Weft floats : 5



Go to the store





















































































How to change profile into fabric



W. Watson
Handweaving.net #62207
Straight threading
40 shafts  40 threading  40 treadling

Our new method to change profile into fabric
and  to enlarge by 9  the pattern 
 W. Watson
Handweaving.net #62207
Straight look threading
42 shafts 120 threading 120 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 16   Weft floats : 5














Clipart
Handweaving.net #22632
Straight threading
33 shafts  33 threading  34 treadling or picks

Our new method to change profile into fabric
and  to enlarge by 9  the pattern 
Handweaving.net #22632
Straight look threading
36 shafts 102 threading 102 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 9   Weft floats : 5


















Clipart
Handweaving.net #22631
Straight threading
26 shafts  26 threading  32 treadling or picks

Our new method to change profile into fabric
and  to enlarge by 9  the pattern 
Handweaving.net #22631
Straight look threading
28 shafts 78 threading 100 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 7   Weft floats : 5

Our new method to change profile into fabric
and  to enlarge by 9  the pattern 
Handweaving.net #61456
Pointed look threading
28 shafts 150 threading 100 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 7   Weft floats : 5









Handweaving.net  #41634

From handweaving.net #41634 to 
weft patterned tabby/ Taffetas lançé background
Handweaving.net #41634
No warp floats    Weft floats : 5
Close up



From handweaving.net #41634 to weft faced compound tabby/Taqueté background
Handweaving.net #41634
No floats
Close up










               From profile with huge floats to real fabric                
Handweaving.net #22649 with 10 shafts
                                                         
 Handweaving.net #22649
Pointed look threading
decreased from 10 to 4 shafts
and changed into fabric
Warp floats : 7  Weft floats : 5





Part 3
From web figure or idea to different backgrounds 




Any 1 and 2 color image converted into fabric




Fond Taffetas liseré
Self patterned tabby background
Pointed look threading
30 shafts 1 color
No warp floats   Weft floats : 5

Fond Taqueté
Weft faced compound tabby background
Pointed look threading
Taqueté background
30 shafts 2 colors
No warp floats   Weft floats : 5

Gros de Tours background
Pointed look threading
30 shafts 2 colors
No warp floats   Weft floats : 5







From idea to self patterned tabby/ taffetas liseré background
34 shafts
No warp floats  Weft floats : 5
47 shafts
No warp floats  Weft floats : 5

18 shafts
No warp floatings except honeycomb   Weft floats : 5

18 shafts
color repeat : 96 threading
Warp floats : 7    Weft floats : 5

18 shafts
close up
color repeat : 96 threading
Warp floats : 7    Weft floats : 5

34 shafts
No warp floats  Weft floats : 5

34 shafts
No warp floats  Weft floats : 5

26 shafts
No warp floats  Weft floats : 5

26 shafts
No warp floats  Weft floats : 5









From idea to weft patterned tabby/ Taffetas lançé background
12 shafts
No floats





From idea to figured épingline façonnée background
11 shafts




From idea to Figured mock leno/Fausse gaze façonnée background
10 shafts



From idea to Figured honeycomb/Nid d'abeille façonné background
12 shafts






For each weave you got :

For manual control loom

1 graphic with  threading and liftplan


For digital control loom

1 WIF with threading and liftplan

 Tips 
#1 our weaving method requires a binding warp, your fabric will be more beautiful with a binding warp half the size of ground warp. No need to have 2 beams with natural materials.
#2 covering weft will make sure the binding warp vanished