New weave enlargement technique on shafts without distortion - Nouvelle technique d'agrandissement d'armures sur lames sans les déformer

For more than a hundred years all kinds of weaves have been found with the dobby loom, the Jacquard loom, the drawloom including "Taqueté, Samit and Lampas".
Our forebears extensively shetched the enlargement of dobby weaves.
However, they did not have computers, which has left the study uncomplete.
Therefore, the purpose of this webpage is to provide you a complete global technique.

Depuis plus de cent ans tout a été trouvé en matière d'armures que ce soit sur le métier armuré, le métier Jacquard ou le métier à la tire avec les célèbres "Taqueté, Samit  et Lampas"
Nos anciens ont même largement esquissé l'agrandissement des armures sur lames "Dobby weaves", mais , comme ils ne disposaient pas à l'époque d'ordinateurs, l'étude n'a pas été systématique comme nous vous le proposons dans cette page Web. 


New weaving technique on dobby loom
New weaving technique with shafts


Part 1
Weave enlargement 

Info : sometimes, there are missing warp float stops, you can add them if necessary. 
Quelquefois, par manque de temps, les flottés chaine n'ont pas été coupés, vous pouvez les couper si le vous jugez nécessaire.

Atlas 4000 armures by L. Serrure on sale




L. Serrure 1385
Handweaving.net #36276
Pointed  threading
16 shafts  30 threading 36 treadling

Our new technque to enlarge by 6
 L. Serrure 1385
Handweaving.net #36276
Pointed look threading
18 shafts 90 threading  72 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 16   Weft floats : 5
Reverse side








L. Serrure  2053
Handweaving.net #36944
Pointed  threading
20 shafts  20 threading 32 treadling


Our new technique to enlarge by 6
 L. Serrure 2053
Handweaving.net #36944
Pointed look threading
22 shafts 60 threading  64 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 10   Weft floats : 5









L. Serrure  2103
Handweaving.net #36994
Pointed  threading
20 shafts  20 threading 40 treadling or picks


Our new technque to enlarge by 6
 L. Serrure 2103
Handweaving.net #36994
Pointed look threading
22 shafts 60 threading  80 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 10   Weft floats : 5










L. Serrure  2149
Handweaving.net #37040
Pointed  threading
18 shafts  38 threading 20 treadling or picks

Our new technique to enlarge by 6
 L. Serrure 2149
Handweaving.net #37040
Pointed look threading
22 shafts 114 threading 40 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 8   Weft floats : 5

Atlas 4000 armures by L. Serrure on sale



L. Serrure 719
Handweaving.net #35610
Straight threading
12 shafts  12 threading 12 treadling


Our new method to enlarge by 6
 Serrure 719
Handweaving.net #35610
Straight look threading
14 shafts 36 threading 24 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 10   Weft floats : 5







L. Serrure 1221
Handweaving.net #36112
Straight threading
16 shafts  16 threading 16 treadling



Our new method to enlarge by 6
 Serrure 1221
Handweaving.net #36112
Straight look threading
18 shafts 48 threading  32 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 10   Weft floats : 5








L. Serrure  2151
Handweaving.net #37042
Pointed  threading
20 shafts  38 threading 9 treadling or picks




Our new method to enlarge by 6
 Serrure 2151
Handweaving.net #37042
Pointed look threading
22 shafts  114 threading  18 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 12   Weft floats : 5









L. Serrure 184
Handweaving.net #35075
Straight threading
8 shafts  8 threading 6 treadling


Our new method to enlarge by 6
 Serrure 184
Handweaving.net #35075
Straight look threading
10 shafts 24 threading 12 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 6   Weft floats : 5














L. Serrure 195
Handweaving.net #35086
Straight threading
8 shafts  8 threading 8 treadling



Our new method to enlarge by 6
 Serrure 195
Handweaving.net #35086
Straight look threading
10 shafts 24 threading 16 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 14   Weft floats : 5


Atlas 4000 armures by L. Serrure on sale




2/ Enlargement by 3 of weaves from books like :
L. Serrure, E. A. Posselt, I. kastanek, G. H. Oelsner, F. Donat, etc

Serrure 2678
Handweaving.net #37569
Straight threading
30 shafts 30 threading 30 treadling
Our new method to enlarge by 3
 Serrure 2678
Handweaving.net #37569
Straight look threading 
32 shafts  90 threading 30 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 11   Weft floats : 5







G. H. Oelsner
Handweaving.net #33721
Double straight threading
20 shafts 40 threading 40 treadling
Warp floats : 17  weft floats : 38

Our new method to enlarge by 3
 G. H. Oelsner
Handweaving.net #33721
Straight look threading 
22 shafts  60 threading  80 treadling or picks
 Warp floats : 9   Weft floats : 5











Serrure 2114
Handweaving.net #37005
Straight threading
20 shafts 20 threading 50 treadling or picks

Our new method to enlarge by 3
 Serrure 2114
Handweaving.net #37005
Straight look threading 
22 shafts  60 threading 50 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 7   Weft floats : 5











Schams
Handweaving.net #12870
Pointed threading
9 shafts 16 threading 56 treadling or picks

Our new method to enlarge by 3
 Schams
Handweaving.net #12870
Pointed look threading 
11 shafts  48 threading 56 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 3   Weft floats : 5










3/ Enlargement by 5 of weaves from books like :
L. Serrure, E. A. Posselt, I. kastanek, G. H. Oelsner, E. Poma, etc
E. Poma
Handweaving.net #44066
Pointed threading
21 shafts 42 threading 140 treadling

Our new method to enlarge by 5
 E. Poma
Handweaving.net #44066
Pointed look threading 
24 shafts  210 threading  140 treadling or picks
No floats in warp   Weft floats : 7 









Schams
Handweaving.net #12870
Pointed threading
9 shafts 16 threading 56 treadling or picks
Our new method to enlarge by 5
 Schams
Handweaving.net #12870
Pointed look threading 
11 shafts  80 threading 56 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 3   Weft floats : 5

























4/ Enlargement by 9 of weaves from books like :
L. Serrure, E. A. Posselt, I. kastanek, G. H. Oelsner, F. Donat, etc


R. Griswold
Handweaving.net #8452
Straight threading
28 shafts  28 threading 50 treadling
Warp floats : 8    Weft floats : 12 

Our new method to enlarge by 9
R. Griswold
Handweaving.net #8452
Straight look threading
30 shafts 84 threading 150 threadling or picks
Warp floats : 7   Weft floats : 5











5/ Enlargement by 10 of weaves from books like :

L. Serrure, E. A. Posselt, I. kastanek, G. H. Oelsner, F. Donat, etc



L. Serrure 2112
Handweaving.net #37003
Straight threading
20 shafts  20 threading 40 treadling or picks

Our new method to enlarge by 10
 Serrure 2112
Handweaving.net #37003
Straight look threading
22 shafts  100 threading 80 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 10  Weft floats : 5











6/ Enlargement by 15 of weaves from books like :
L. Serrure, E. A. Posselt, I. kastanek, G. H. Oelsner, F. Donat, etc

L. Serrure 2317
Handweaving.net #37208
Straight threading
24 shafts  24 threading 18 treadling or picks

Our new method to enlarge by 15
 Serrure 2317
Handweaving.net #37208
Straight look threading
26 shafts  120 threading 72 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 7  Weft floats : 5









E. Poma
Handweaving.net #43841
Pointed  threading
13 shafts  24 threading 36 treadling

Our new method to enlarge by 15
 E. Poma 
Handweaving.net #43841
Pointed  look threading
15 shafts  120 threading 108 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 9  Weft floats : 7








7/ Enlargement by 20 of weaves from books like :
L. Serrure, E. A. Posselt, I. kastanek, G. H. Oelsner, F. Donat, etc


L. Serrure 2137
Handweaving.net #37028
Pointed threading
20 shafts  38 threading 40 treadling or picks

Our new method to enlarge by 20
 Serrure 2137
Handweaving.net #37028
Pointed look threading
22 shafts  190 threading 160 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 7  Weft floats : 7







Buy 1343 patterns enlarged by 6  from L. Serrure






Part 2
How to change profile into fabric



W. Watson
Handweaving.net #62207
Straight threading
40 shafts  40 threading  40 treadling

Our new method to change profile into fabric
and  to enlarge by 9  the pattern 
 W. Watson
Handweaving.net #62207
Straight look threading
42 shafts 120 threading 120 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 16   Weft floats : 5














Clipart
Handweaving.net #22632
Straight threading
33 shafts  33 threading  34 treadling or picks

Our new method to change profile into fabric
and  to enlarge by 9  the pattern 
Handweaving.net #22632
Straight look threading
36 shafts 102 threading 102 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 9   Weft floats : 5


















Clipart
Handweaving.net #22631
Straight threading
26 shafts  26 threading  32 treadling or picks

Our new method to change profile into fabric
and  to enlarge by 9  the pattern 
Handweaving.net #22631
Straight look threading
28 shafts 78 threading 100 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 7   Weft floats : 5

Our new method to change profile into fabric
and  to enlarge by 9  the pattern 
Handweaving.net #61456
Pointed look threading
28 shafts 150 threading 100 treadling or picks
Warp floats : 7   Weft floats : 5









Handweaving.net  #41634

From handweaving.net #41634 to 
weft patterned tabby/ Taffetas lançé background
Handweaving.net #41634
No warp floats    Weft floats : 5
Close up



From handweaving.net #41634 to weft faced compound tabby/Taqueté background
Handweaving.net #41634
No floats
Close up










               From profile with huge floats to real fabric                
Handweaving.net #22649 with 10 shafts
                                                         
 Handweaving.net #22649
Pointed look threading
decreased from 10 to 4 shafts
and changed into fabric
Warp floats : 7  Weft floats : 5





Part 3
From web figure or idea to different backgrounds 




Any 1 and 2 color image converted into fabric




Fond Taffetas liseré
Self patterned tabby background
Pointed look threading
30 shafts 1 color
No warp floats   Weft floats : 5

Fond Taqueté
Weft faced compound tabby background
Pointed look threading
Taqueté background
30 shafts 2 colors
No warp floats   Weft floats : 5

Gros de Tours background
Pointed look threading
30 shafts 2 colors
No warp floats   Weft floats : 5







From idea to self patterned tabby/ taffetas liseré background
34 shafts
No warp floats  Weft floats : 5
47 shafts
No warp floats  Weft floats : 5

18 shafts
No warp floatings except honeycomb   Weft floats : 5

18 shafts
color repeat : 96 threading
Warp floats : 7    Weft floats : 5

18 shafts
close up
color repeat : 96 threading
Warp floats : 7    Weft floats : 5

34 shafts
No warp floats  Weft floats : 5

34 shafts
No warp floats  Weft floats : 5

26 shafts
No warp floats  Weft floats : 5

26 shafts
No warp floats  Weft floats : 5









From idea to weft patterned tabby/ Taffetas lançé background
12 shafts
No floats





From idea to figured épingline façonnée background
11 shafts




From idea to Figured mock leno/Fausse gaze façonnée background
10 shafts



From idea to Figured honeycomb/Nid d'abeille façonné background
12 shafts






For each weave you got :

For manual control loom

1 graphic with  threading and liftplan


For digital control loom

1 WIF with threading and liftplan

 Tips 
#1 our weaving method requires a binding warp, your fabric will be more beautiful with a binding warp half the size of ground warp. No need to have 2 beams with natural materials.
#2 covering weft will make sure the binding warp vanished